Choose the correct
direct drive pump. This choice is very important
for achieving clear water when using our filter.
The ponds total water volume should be filtered
a minimum of once every two hours, but if possible
once an hour is preferred. A larger pump maybe
needed to deliver the necessary flow recommended
for the filter and discharge to the waterfall.
Measure the total length of tubing needed. For
every 10-ft., of tubing add 1 foot of lift to
the height of the waterfall from the ponds water
surface. Your pump selection will be based upon
the total gallons per hour (GPH) at that calculated
the height. The pump needs to pull from the
opposite end of the pond’s waterfall or
the filter discharge. This set-up will alleviate
any stagnate areas in the pond.
Choose the right tubing. The following
is a flow chart for choosing the correct tubing
for your pump. Larger is better! Greater flow
with less velocity and friction loss.
300 GPH 1/2" tubing
720 GPH 3/4"
tubing
1200 GPH 1"tubing
3000 GPH 1 1/2" tubing
4800 GPH 2"tubing
6000 GPH 2 1/2"tubing
9000 GPH 3" tubing
Run the system continuously 24 hours a day.
If the pump is turned off, not only will the
bacteria die, but also not circulating the pond
water could allow for an anaerobic condition
to develop. This condition is not a healthy
environment for the pond or the fish.
Is the pond water temperature . . . TOO
HOT—TOO COLD? Know your ponds typical water
temperature. This temperature has a great effect
on any ponds biological performance. To handle
the temperature extremes an UV (clarifier) is
used. This clarifier supplies additional mechanical
filtration necessary to solve this problem
Pond Location is important. A pond located
next to, or close to, trees will have additional
upkeep to remove the debris and leaves from
the pond. On the other hand, a pond that is
placed in full sun should have at least 60%
of the water shaded. This can be done with various
aquatic plants.
Plan to add fish? You will need to figure
the Bio-load (how many fish) for the size pond
you are planning. Figure the ponds surface area,
then multiply by 1.5”. This is the number
of inches of fish the pond will handle. Example:
10’ x 10’ pond = 100 sq. ft. of surface
area. 100 x 1.5” = 150” of total fish.
(30 fish at 5”).
You will need to know or have an idea of the
hardness or softness of the water in your
area. Test the total alkalinity or call
your Cities Municipality for the answer. The
ideal water hardness for a pond is between 120ppm-240ppm.
If it is not in this ideal range, the pH will
fluctuate dramatically and your ponds biological
performance will be effected. It may be necessary
to use a stabilizer or buffer; these products
are available to the hobbyist. Some states have
water conditions that effect the total alkalinity.
These states are: Colorado – with very
Hard water and North and South Carolinas –
with very soft water.
Speed-up the ponds biological maturity
(normally a 6-week period) by seeding the pond.
Add bacteria weekly to raise the bacteria level
or count.
When contacting
PFI for consultation
figure your pond size accurately, do
not guess!
The following is used to figure gallons:
Average Length x average Width x average Depth
x 7.5 (gallons per cu. ft. of water) = total
gallons of pond water.
Example: 10’ x10’ x 2’ x 7.5
= 1500 gallons
Circular pond . . . use “Pi” (3.1416)
x (radius x radius) x depth x 7.5 = gallons
of pond.
Example: 10’ diameter pond 2’ deep.
(radius = 1/2 of diameter) 5’ x 5’
x 3.1416 x 2’ x 7.5 = 1178 gallons
| NOT SURE WHAT PARTS YOU NEED? |
Call Pond Filtration at 1-800-882-5327 for expert advice. |